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Gem
Facts
Geology & Description of Gemstones
| Emerald |
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Emerald
is a green variety of the mineral beryl. One of the rarest members
of the beryl family - only the res variety (sometimes calles "red
emerald") is rarer - it is one of the most highly prized
of all the gems. Aside from being the birthstone for May, it was
historically believed to bestow on its wearer faithfulness and
unchanging love, and was thought to enable the wearer to forecast
events.
The
highest-quality emerald has the color of fresh young green grass
- an almost pure spectral green, possibly with a faint tint of
blue, as in the finest emerald from Colombia, wich is considered
be connoisseurs to be the world's finest. Other sources include
Brazil, Zambia, Pakistan, Afganistan, Russia, and India. Flawless
emeralds are rare, so their "flaws" have come to serve
almost as "fingerprints," while flawless emeralds are
immediately suspect. Although a hard stone, emerald will chip
easily since it tends to be somewhat brittle, so special care
should be given in wearing and handling.
Because
of emerald's popularity and value, imitations are abundant. Glass,
manufactured complete with "flaws," and doublets or
triplets, like "aquamarine emeralds" and "Tecla
emeralds" are often encountered.
Also,
fine synthetic emeralds are being produced with nearly the same
color, hardness, and brilliance as genuine emerald. These synthetics
are not inexpensive themselves, except by comparison to a genuine
emerald of equivalent quality.
Today
emeralds are oiled using a vacuum/heat technology. This is a widely
accepted trade practice, since it is actually good for the stone
in light of its fragile nature. Oiling hides some of the whitish
flaws, which are actually cracks, filling the cracks so they become
less visible.
Never
clean emeralds in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Epoxy
resin fillers are a recent newcomer, but this treatment is gaining
popularity and is now used on many emeralds mined in many parts
of the world, including Colombia and Brazil.
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| Ruby |
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Prized
through the ages, even by kings, as the "gem of gems... surpassing
all other precious stones in virtue," ruby is the red variety
of the moineral corundum. Historically, it has been the symbol
of love and passion, considered to be an aid to firm friendship,
and belienved to ensure beauty. Today's birthstone for July, ruby's
color ranges from purplish or bluish red to a yellowish red.Ther
finest color is a vivid, almost pure spectral red with a very
faint undertone of blue, asseen in Burmese rubies, which are considered
the finest among ardent collectors. Other sources of the fine
ruby are Thailand, Vietnam, Camnodia, Kenya, Tanzania, and Azad
Kashmir in Pakistan.
The
ruby is very brilliant and very hard, ranking 9 on Moh's scale
(an internationally recognized standard that ranges from 1 for
very soft to 10 for the very hardest). Ruby is also very durable
and wearable, characteristics that make it an unsually fine choice
for any piece of jewelry.
Translucent
varieties of ruby are also seen, and one variety exhibits a six-ray
star effect when cut as a cabochon. This variety is called a star
ruby and is one of nature's most beautiful and interesting
gifts.
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| Sapphire |
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The
"celestial" sapphire, symbol of the heaven, guardian
of innocence, bewtower of tryth and good health, preserver of
chastity, is in fact the mineral cirundum. While we know it best
in its blue variety, which is highly prized, it comes in essentially
every color; red corundum is ruby. As with ruby, its sister stone,
sapphire is characterized by hardness, billiance, and availability
in many beautiful colors, all of which make it probably the most
important and most versatile of the gem families.
Blue
sapphires can be among the most valuable members of the sapphire
family - especially stones from Burma and Kashmir, which are closest
to the pure spectral blue. Fine, brilliant, deep blue Burmese
sapphires will surely dazzle the eye and the pocketbook, as will
the Kashmir, which is a fine velvety-toned deep blue. Many today
tend to be too dark, howver, because of the presence of too much
black and poor cutting (cutting deepfor additional gem weight),
but the deep blue can be treated to lighten the color.
The
Ceylon (Sri Lanka) sapphires are a very pleasing blue, but are
a less deep shade than the Burmese or Kashmir, instead tending
to fall more on the pastel side.
We
are also seeing many Australian sapphires, which are often a dark
blue, but with a slightly green undertone, as are those from Thailand;
both sell for much less per carat. They offer a very affordable
alternative to the Burmese, Kashmir, of Ceylon, and can still
be very pleasing in their color. Blue sapphires also come from
Tanzania, Brazil, Africa, and even the United States. Montana
sapphires are very collectible because of their unusual shades
of color, and because many are natural color; that is, not subjected
to any treatment. for those who want a gem that is truely "natural."
Montana sapphire may be the choice for you.
In
addition to the blue sapphire, we are now beginning to see the
appearance of many other color varieties in the lastest jewelry
designs - especially yellow and pink, and in smaller sizes some
beautiful shades of green. These are known as fancy sapphires.
Compared to the cost of blue sapphire and ruby, these stones offer
excellent value and real beauty.
A
beautiful and rare variety called padparadsha (a type of
lotus flower) is also in demand. The true padparadscha should
exhibit a pink and orange color simultaneously. Depending
upon the richness of color, brilliance, and size, these can be
very expensive. A lovely but more common and more affordable variety
is available today which is really a rich orange color. It is
often sold as padparadscha but the rarer and more costly gem will
always exhibit a stong pink with the orange.
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| Alexandrite |
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Alexandrite
is a fascinating transparent gem that appears grass green in daylight
and raspberry red under artificial light. Is is a variety of chrysoberyl
reputedly discovered in russia in 1931 on the day Alexander II
reached his majority; hence the name. In Russia, where the national
colors also happen to be green and red, it is considered a stone
of very good omen. It is considered Friday's stone or the stone
of "Friday's child."
Unlike
other stones, which mankind has known about and admired for thousands
of years, Alexandrite is a relatively recent gem discovery. Nontheless,
it has definitely come into its own and is presently commanding
both high appeal and high prices. While fairly common in small
sizes, it has become relatively scarce in sizes to two carats
or more. A fine three-carat stone can cost $45,000 today. If you
see an alexandrite that measures more than half inch in width,
be suspicious of a fake. Alexandrite is normally cut in a faceted
style, but some cat's-eye type alexandrites, found in Brazil,
would be cut as a cabochon to display the eye effect. These are
usually small; the largest we've seen was approximately three-carats.
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| Amber |
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Amber
is not a stone, but rather an amorphous, fossilized tree sap.
It was one of the earliest substances used for personal adornment.
Modestly decorated pieces of rough amber have been found in Stone
Age excavations and are assumed to have been used as amulets and
talismans - a use definitely recorded throughout history before,
during, and since the ancient Greeks. Because of its beautiful
color and ease with which it could be fashioned, amber quickly
became a favorite object of trade and barter and personal adornment.
Amber varies from transparent to semitransparent, and from yellow
to dark brown in colr; occasionally it's seen in reddish and greenish
brown tones. In additiona,, amber can be dyed many colors. Occasionally,
one can find "foreign" fragments or insects that were
trapped in the amber, which usually increases its value because
of the added curiosity factor.
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| Amethyst |
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Amethyst,
a transparent purple variety of quartz, is one of the most popular
of the colored stones. Once believed to bring peace of mind to
the wearer, it was also thought to prevent the wearer from getting
drunk, and if the circle of the sun or moon was engraved thereon,
amethyst was believed to prevent death from poison.
Available
in shades from light to dark purple, this February birthstone
is relatively hard, fairly brilliant, and overall a good, versatile,
wearable stone, available in plentiful supply even in very large
sizes (although large sizes with deep color are now becoming scarce).
Amethyst is probably one of the most beautiful stones available
at a moderate price.
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| Andalusite |
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"Poor
Man's Alexandrite" Andalusite is now offering interesting
new possibilities fro jewelry. Brazil is the primary source of
these fascinating, fairly hard, and fairly durable stones. Andalusite
is very interesting because it may exhibit several colors - an
olive green in one direction, a rich reddish brown from another
direction, and grayish green from yet another direction. In an
emerald cut it may look primarily green while exhibiting an orange
color at the ends of the emerald shape. In a round cut you may
see the green body color with simultaneous flashes of another
color. One benefit andalusite has over alexandrite is that you
don't have to change the light in which it is bing seen to experience
it's colors; merely changing the perspective does the trick. A
rare and sometimes expensive emerald green variety may exhibit
a bright yellow simultaneously, or when viewed from a different
angles. A pink andalusite does not exhibit this kind of color
phenomenon. While andalusite is not readily available yet, it
is finding a market, especially among men.
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| Aquamarine |
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To
dream of aquamarine signifies the making of new friends; to wear
aquamaring earrings brings love and affection. Aquamarine, a universal
symbol of youth, hope, and health, blesses those born in March.
(Prior to the fifteenth century it was considered to be the birthstone
for those born in October.
Aquamarine
is a member of the important beryl family, which includes emeral,
but aquamarine is less brittle and more durable than its green
counterpart. Aquamarine ranges in color from light-blue to bluish
green to deep blue, the latter being the most valuableand desirable.
It iws a very wearable gem, clear and brilliant, and unlike emerald,
is available with excellent clarity even in very large sizes,
although these are becoming scarce today. Aquamarines are still
widely available in sizes up to 15 carats, but 10-carat sizes
with fine color and clarity are becoming scarce and are more expensive.
Long considered a beautiful and moderately priced gem, it is now
entering the "expensive" classification for stones in
larger sizes with a good deep blue color.
A
word of caution for those interested in this lovely gem. You may
want to think twice before buying a pale or shallow-cut stone,
since the color will become paler as dirt accumulates on the back.
these stones need constant cleaning to keep them beautiful.
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